We traveled to Rome in the rain on Friday afternoon, October 21. We arranged to drop the Hertz rental off in Chiusi, which was more sensible then Arezzo.

note to self: rent car in Chiusi on return trip

I think its fair to say that we both were not looking forward to the hustle and bustle of the city after the Tuscan countryside. That quickly turned around after arrival.

We stayed at the Hotel Barocco, a 3-star place on Piazza Barberini. After arrival, the weather was ok, but overcast. Lisa went shoe shopping on the trendy Via Tratone, just off the square. After purchasing her Valleverde shoes, we walked to the Fontana Trevi ten minutes away.  We made a point to come back when the sun was shining.

I had made reservations via the hotel for La Rampa, famous for its antipasto (best in Rome). Its at the foot of the "small steps" near the Spanish Steps.  It was a huge disappointment and not to be recommended. The food was ok, the service staffs motive was to turn the tourist tables as fast as possible and leave the place to the Romans. p---ed me off.

Saturday morning we did a tour with Green Line Tours (recommended) of the Vatican Museum. Advice: avoid Saturdays or arrive at 8h15 (30 minutes before they open).  The Sistine Chapel was restored in 1996 and its very popular. We waited 1h40min in line. This was with a pre-purchased ticket. The line is just for metal detection. It was worth the wait as the pictures show.

We went to Saint Peters' Basilica after lunch. If you do this (as many do), eat in Rome near the exit of the Museum. The few places inside the Vatican City were marginal and crowded. The Basilica was amazing, Michelangelo's Pieta is there and you can also tour the tombs where many popes rest in eternity (including John Paul II).

That evening we had the best meal of the trip at Colline Emiligiane, a small family run place reputed to have the best pasta in Rome. Make a reservation as we saw droves of people turned away while we were there.

The next day we took the metro subway (4 euro/day unlimited) to the Colosseum. We hailed a tour guide and avoided the long lines on a Sunday. Thereafter we walked to the San Pietro in Vinicoli (highly recommended) nearby. This church has the marble statue of Moses by Michelangelo which almost rivals his David. This was originally intended for the tomb of Pope Julius II in Saint Peter's in the Vatican.

In the afternoon, we toured the Palatine Hills (highly recommended). This was supposedly built by Romulus, father of Rome, and inhabited by emperors for centuries. This included Mussolini, who built a home there in the 1930s.  The garden's vistas were great for picture taking. On the way back we toured the Piazza Venezia (also recommended) and the Fontana Trevi.

Dinner was at the Aurora 10 da Pino il Sommelier, also found in Frommers. This meal was also very good, but not quite as good as the previous evening. It was also a short walk from the hotel, up the Via Veneto.

Up early Monday and back by private car to the airport for the trip home and return to reality.